Our Japanese adventure began with a bit of pre-flight stress. We booked one-way tickets from Reagan to Osaka on Air Canada, with a layover in Toronto. Despite meticulously packing within the luggage limits (one checked bag, one carry-on, and one personal item each), we were forced to check our carry-on at the gate due to limited overhead space. Frustrating, but the flight to Toronto was smooth enough.
Our Toronto layover turned into a frustrating eSIM hunt. Online purchases failed, and AT&T offered zero help, instead trying to upsell us on international travel packages and insisting I needed to unlock my phone (which was already unlocked!). With boarding looming, they told us to call back from Osaka – leaving us in a pre-trip panic.
The long flight to Osaka was, well, long. Comfort was not a highlight. Touching down, we immediately tackled the eSIM issue by buying a pocket Wi-Fi device – a lifesaver for navigating the complex train system to our hotel. Despite extensive research, the train stations proved confusing, especially with our luggage. What should have been an hour-long journey stretched into four. We were immensely relieved to finally spot our hotel, a conveniently located gem thanks to Expedia.
Osaka Days 1-3: Universal Studios and Dotonbori Delights
Our first full day was dedicated to Universal Studios Japan. Arriving early didn't save us from the massive lines. We started by browsing the Mario-themed merchandise outside the park. Inside, the wait times were astronomical. Forget the roller coasters and fancy dining experiences; we opted for pizza at Louie’s N.Y. Pizza Parlor, devouring both the Quattro Formaggi and the Meat! Meat! Meat! options. With lines remaining insane, we focused on soaking up the atmosphere, snapping photos, catching a Hello Kitty concert, and witnessing a Halloween Pokémon event. Finally, at 2 PM, we breached Mario World! The Power-Up Band Key Challenge and the Mario Kart ride were absolutely worth the wait. We had to leave early, though, to catch our reservation at TeamLab's Botanical Garden, a breathtaking walkthrough exhibit.
Day two was a mix of shopping, cafes, and the vibrant Dotonbori. Ryland led us to a fantastic, lesser-known shop packed with Pokémon merchandise. In Dotonbori, we stumbled upon a pastel-themed Maid Café. Intrigued, we ventured in. Our waitress, in full maid attire, welcomed us to a dollhouse-like space. We ordered the signature omelet with ketchup art and a rainbow cheesecake. Tipping isn't customary in Japan, so I paid for a photo with our excellent waitress as a thank you. Next, we discovered a cozy cat café (complete with a fox!). Later, back in Dotonbori, Ryland found a highly-rated local Okonomiyaki restaurant. The chef's special became my favorite meal of the entire trip!
Day three brought us back to Universal Studios for anime and Halloween festivities. The Demon Slayer ride had a much shorter wait (only 90 minutes!), and we enjoyed lunch at the Demon Slayer restaurant. The costumes were incredible! Our Halloween Horror Nights Express pass granted us speedy access to thrilling attractions like Chainsaw Man and Harry Potter. We hit the Harry Potter ride first, saving the scarier experiences for later. The Express passes were game-changers, letting us skip the lines, catch a concert, and even encounter some terrifying zombies. We ended the day exhausted but exhilarated, especially after the chilling Chucky Haunted House.
Osaka Day 4: From Dotonbori to Kyoto
On October 14th, we enjoyed a quiet morning in Dotonbori, exploring arcades, shopping, and savoring street food before the crowds arrived. After collecting our luggage, we braved the train system to Kyoto. Luggage in tow, it was a bit of a struggle, but we eventually reached our comfortable hotel near the station in the early evening.
Kyoto Days 5-7: Hiking, Monkeys, and Golden Temples
Day five began at dawn with our local guide at a Family Mart near Tofukuji Station. Egg salad sandwiches in hand, we embarked on a 4.5-mile hike to the Fushimi Inari Shrine. The challenging trail rewarded us with stunning views and thousands of vibrant red torii gates. Post-hike, we enjoyed crab leg appetizers and beautiful ice cream before taking a train to Otsu. Our stay at Biwako Ryokusuitei was pure luxury. We donned yukatas for happy hour on the veranda and indulged in a remarkable Kaiseki dinner, featuring A4-grade Omi Wagyu beef. A private balcony onsen capped off the perfect day.
Day six started with a delicious buffet breakfast. Ryland experimented with various dishes, while I stuck to fresh fruits and chocolate chip croissants. After checking out, we visited Arashiyama Monkey Park Iwatayama. A scenic 0.9-mile trail led us to breathtaking views and playful monkeys (Ryland even participated in the feeding, despite the warning signs!). We then explored the serene Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, arriving just early enough to beat the biggest crowds.
Our final day in Kyoto was sunny and warm. We visited Kinkaku-ji, the stunning Golden Temple. Its beauty was slightly diminished by the throngs of tourists, including numerous school groups. While admiring the temple, I accidentally struck up a conversation with a couple about its classification. Later, I apologized, and we had a lovely chat. They recommended the quieter Shodenji Temple, a favorite of David Bowie. We hiked to Shodenji, enjoying the charming trail, and the temple keeper even showed us where Bowie used to sit. We asked him for local ramen recommendations, which led us to a quaint restaurant serving exceptional ramen. A nearby bakery then lured us in with delicious cheesecake rolls, cream puffs, and tiramisu cake. After a final stroll and some Taiyaki (red bean paste wasn't my favorite), we collected our bags and boarded the bullet train to Tokyo.
Tokyo Days 7-12: Anime, Kimonos, and Disneyland
In Tokyo, we checked into the Nohga Hotel in Akihabara, a gamer's paradise. The city's energy was a stark contrast to Kyoto. We explored anime stores, an arcade, and even tried some unique McDonald's menu items (Double Big Mac and Sweet Potato Caramel Pie!).
Our first day in Tokyo was chilly and drizzly. We braved the weather for our mochi-making reservation in Shinjuku. Unreliable Wi-Fi led us to a male-only hotel (oops!), but after some laughs and detours, we found the correct venue. Our hostess shared the history of mochi, making the experience even more special.
Day nine was all about Akihabara. We stumbled upon a Maid Cafe Convention, explored a multi-level anime store (where Ryland accepted a dare to buy some polaroids), enjoyed fresh juice, and bought hand-painted scrolls from a charming shop owner. In the evening, we experienced a "Winter Fairy" themed cafe (dinner and a show!) and attempted a "Vampire" themed cafe (but they were closed).
Day ten started with a delicious hole-in-the-wall restaurant near our hotel. After lunch, we ventured to Ikebukuro, enjoying ice cream and pudding. Getting lost while searching for Sunshine City led us to some fun discoveries (and a Family Mart run). We finally reached Ikebukuro, just in time for a lively festival.
Day eleven was dedicated to designing our own Kimono and Yukata. The shop, tucked away in a residential area, was a treasure trove of antique kimonos. I chose a formal silk kimono, and Ryland opted for a practical pattern. After tailoring, my dream obi was almost snatched away, but I snagged it at the last minute! We then met a photographer in a park (after a slight location change) for a photo shoot in our stunning attire. Later, we explored Harajuku, hitting up a "gotcha" arcade, a Dachshund dog café, and a whimsical pink café. Our day ended at Teamlab Planets, a magical interactive art museum.
Our final day, day twelve, was Halloween at Tokyo Disneyland! The park was decked out in festive decorations, and the atmosphere was electric. While different from Disney World, the magic was undeniable. I missed my Disney buddy, Priscilla, who would have loved it! From Main Street to the attractions, the Halloween spirit was everywhere.
